Barir's World

Humanity To Others;Knowledge Is Not Ours To Keep Alone;Your Mind Is Your Most Precious Resource

Car Battery Service


Hi,
    
     If your car battery breaks down (unable to start your car cause of no power
     from your battery), you can give me a call.

     You can purchase a battery from me or I could go to your place & install
     a new battery for you. 


     At the moment, I am stocking batteries that are made locally (Kochi Brand).
     Warranty is for 1 year .

     Place : Lot 2974, Sg Pencala, JLN Damansara, 60000 KL. 
   H/P : 017-8882144 (Barir)  
 


     Here are the retail prices :
     ( not inclusive of breakdown fees)   

     Size                                                    RM

     NS 40 / 40L                                       135.00
     NS 40 / 40L Maintenance Free           155.00  
     NS 60 / 60L                                       165.00
     NS 60 / 60L Maintenance Free           175.00
     NS 70 / 70L                                       190.00

    Useful Tips >

    > Disconnect negative battery terminal first before disconnecting the positive
      terminal & when reinstall connect the
negative terminal last.
   >  Before putting on the terminals on a new battery, make sure to scrub the
      inside of the terminals & the new battery
posts with a sandpaper or a sharp
      object such as a screwdriver. This is to ensure that the surfaces are clean of
     
oxidised layer or dirt & rust so electricity can flow easily (low resistance).
    > Keep a jumper cable in your car ( preferabbly 200amp type) in case your
      battery suddenly died on you at the worst possible time
& place.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        







    
   
Removes corrosion and dirt from battery terminals
and cable clamps. The external brush cleans cable
clamps and the internal brush cleans terminal posts.
Comes with an aluminium cap for protection.
    







HOW IT WORKS: Deeply Discharged Batteries

A lead-acid car battery, like any battery, has an internal resistance, normally a few tenths of an ohm. This means that a charging voltage only a little higher than the battery’s normal 12.6 volts will provide enough current to actually charge the battery at some decent rate, say, 10 to 12 amps. But as the battery discharges, its internal resistance goes up. And the curve is steep. When the battery is almost totally discharged, internal resistance can be high enough to prevent the 13.5 to 14 volts your alternator puts out from doing any significant charging. Charging current in this instance can be as little as only a few hundred milliamps until the battery’s resistance goes down—and that might take many hours, or even days of charging at normal voltages.

The answer is a high-voltage, high-rate professional charger that can supply as much as 25 to 30 volts for a brief period to give the battery a kick in the pants. This will generate a lot of heat, enough to cook a battery within a few minutes. Leave this business to a professional, and follow up with a normal 6- to 10-amp charge.

                                      


Why do batteries seem to go dead and then come back to life if you let them rest?

The "self-recharging" features of batteries is most noticeable in a car battery. In some cases you can crank the engine until the battery seems totally dead, then come back an hour later and crank it again. The higher the drain on the battery (a car's starter motor is an incredibly high-drain device!), the greater the effect.

To understand why this happens, it is helpful to understand what's going on inside the battery. Let's take the simplest zinc/carbon battery as an example. If you take a zinc rod and a carbon rod, connect them together with a wire, and then immerse the two rods in liquid sulfuric acid, you create a battery. Electrons will flow through the wire from the zinc rod to the carbon rod. Hydrogen gas builds up on the carbon rod, and over a fairly short period of time coats the majority of the carbon rod's surface. The layer of hydrogen gas coating the rod blocks the reaction occurring in the cell and the battery begins to look "dead". If you let the battery rest for awhile, the hydrogen gas dissipates and the battery "comes back to life".

In any battery, be it an alkaline battery found in a flashlight or a lead acid battery in a car, the same sort of thing can happen. Reaction products build up around the two poles of the battery and slow down the reaction. By letting the battery rest, you give the reaction products a chance to dissipate. The higher the drain on the battery, the faster the products build up, so batteries under high drain appear to recover more.

Many battery-operated appliances use two or four cells in series to create higher voltages. If one of the cells has a problem (for example, it does not dissipate reaction products as well as the other batteries), it can make all of the batteries appear to go dead. If you test the batteries individually, however, three of the four may be fine. If the batteries seem to go dead too quickly, testing all four batteries is a good idea. Throw out the bad one and re-use the other three.


Diagnostic First and only then Replace


I've had a lot of these in recent months. The complaint is that nothing in the car works. No horn, no lights, no starter. The battery and cables have been replaced and still no juice!! Here's a basic test you can do with a simple multimeter (e.g. Radio Shack $15.00)


Put the multimeter across the battery terminals. 12 volts?? No, then charge the battery and re-test. 12 volts? No=junk the battery and get a new one.

If you get 12 volts at the battery terminals then leave the + lead on the + battery terminal and move the - (neg) lead to the engine block - find a good clean metal surface on the engine and see if there is a 12 volt reading. No=bad ground cable from battery to the engine.

If yes then put the - lead back on the battery and move the + lead down to the next available measurement point, normally the fat lug on the starter motor solenoid. 12 volts?? No=bad battery cable or terminal.

If yes, then move the + lead to the BAT terminal on the alternator. 12 volts? No=burned out fusible link or broken wire .

Yes then move the + lead to the + terminal of the main fuse block in the car. 12 volts?? No=burned fusible or broken wire going to the fuse block.

The basic idea here is to start at the source of energy, the battery, and then move further and further away from the battery (assuming it is good) until you no longer get a 12 volt reading. Then look for burned wires, burned out fusible links and broken connectors. It's not rocket science but it does require an orderly process to isolate the problem.



Can Mechanics Be Dishonest, or Should You Just Know Better?

In his biweekly rant, PM's senior automotive editor bemoans his wife's unnecessary escapades with a new battery.
Published on: January 4, 2008

Last week my wife took her SUV into a nearby quick-lube emporium for a routine oil-and-filter change. You may ask why I didn't just do it myself. Hey, not only was I out of town, but there was also another car and a motorcycle halfway apart in the shop. Plus, she has plenty of other projects for me to do around the house—plumbing, electrical work, the works. And getting an oil change is something that anyone can do for her anytime. I need to do stuff like rewire the overhead light in the furnace room, so I'm certainly not copping out on my husbandly duties or anything.

Understood? Okay, so back to the quick-lube joint.

My wife calls me from the waiting room. The service writer is telling her the battery is marginal, and she should buy a new one—right then—or her car might not start. To which I remind her that I replaced her battery less than two weeks ago.

Meanwhile, the service writer produces a printout from their fancy-dan battery-load tester. It clearly shows a cold-cranking-amps test result of 656 amps. The cold-cranking-amps (CCA) rating is the number of current a new, fully charged 12-volt battery can deliver at 0 F for 30 seconds, while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts. The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery. This guy's maintaining that her 800-amp-rated battery is performing poorly enough that she should buy a new one.

So, of course, I'm not going to let my wife buy a battery until I test it myself. End of phone call.

She calls back 10 minutes later to say that the mechanic has done another battery-load test with a different tester, and the results are no different. Well, I admire the quicky-lube's persistence, but I've got a load tester myself, and everyone knows ... I'm the skeptical sort. Not to mention the fact that this battery is brand new. If it's really gone bad already, I'm going to return it to the AutoZone where I bought it two weeks before.

That evening I pull my wife's truck into the shop and test her battery with my load tester. It doesn't have a fancy printout or temperature compensation feature for measuring reduced battery performance at low temperatures. It's a simple resistive load tester, which draws a fixed couple of hundred amps for 15 seconds and measures the voltage the battery can maintain under this load. Her battery passes with flying colors, losing only a few tenths of a volt under load after the requisite time period.

Now I'm ticked off. I had to remove the battery hold-down bracket to read the label on top of the battery to check the printed rating. It's clearly marked: CCA RATING: 640 AMPS, CRANKING CAPACITY: 800 AMPS. Cranking capacity is a rating used to describe the discharge load in amperes that a new, fully charged battery at 32 F can continuously deliver for 30 seconds while maintaining a terminal voltage equal to or greater than 1.2 volts per individual cell. It is sometimes referred to as marine cranking amps. This is not the same as CCA, largely because the battery is tested at a much warmer temperature, where battery performance is better.

Her battery actually tested 656 amps for CCA, slightly better than the printed CCA specification, not worse. The printout from the tester clearly showed that the test performed was for CCA. The 800-amp number on the top of the battery is for cranking capacity, not cold-cranking amps.

Now, the question is, are the guys at this quick-lube shop really not cognizant of the difference between these two industry-standard ratings, or are they simply taking advantage of someone—my wife—who doesn't? They would have had to remove the hold-down clamp like I did to read the label, so it's not like they were guessing. I'm leaning toward calling this a scam attempt.

And that's unfortunate, because most shops and most technicians and service writers in the auto repair industry are intelligent, well-trained and honest. I've worked in the car repair business most of my life, and this kind of thing is the exception rather than the rule.

The bottom line is that we, as consumers, have a responsibility to be at least somewhat informed as to the complexities of the technologies we depend on. Caveat emptor. (Let the buyer beware.) And if you don't, don't let someone you don't know or trust convince you to make a major purchase without getting a second opinion. You'll need to talk to a local mechanic, because I'm not giving out my cellphone number.

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