Hi,

The answer is a high-voltage, high-rate professional charger that can supply as much as 25 to 30 volts for a brief period to give the battery a kick in the pants. This will generate a lot of heat, enough to cook a battery within a few minutes. Leave this business to a professional, and follow up with a normal 6- to 10-amp charge.
To understand why this happens, it is helpful to understand what's going on inside the battery. Let's take the simplest zinc/carbon battery as an example. If you take a zinc rod and a carbon rod, connect them together with a wire, and then immerse the two rods in liquid sulfuric acid, you create a battery. Electrons will flow through the wire from the zinc rod to the carbon rod. Hydrogen gas builds up on the carbon rod, and over a fairly short period of time coats the majority of the carbon rod's surface. The layer of hydrogen gas coating the rod blocks the reaction occurring in the cell and the battery begins to look "dead". If you let the battery rest for awhile, the hydrogen gas dissipates and the battery "comes back to life".
In any battery, be it an alkaline battery found in a flashlight or a lead acid battery in a car, the same sort of thing can happen. Reaction products build up around the two poles of the battery and slow down the reaction. By letting the battery rest, you give the reaction products a chance to dissipate. The higher the drain on the battery, the faster the products build up, so batteries under high drain appear to recover more.
Many battery-operated appliances use two or four cells in series to create higher voltages. If one of the cells has a problem (for example, it does not dissipate reaction products as well as the other batteries), it can make all of the batteries appear to go dead. If you test the batteries individually, however, three of the four may be fine. If the batteries seem to go dead too quickly, testing all four batteries is a good idea. Throw out the bad one and re-use the other three.
I've had a lot of these in recent months. The complaint is that nothing in the car works. No horn, no lights, no starter. The battery and cables have been replaced and still no juice!! Here's a basic test you can do with a simple multimeter (e.g. Radio Shack $15.00)
Put the multimeter across the battery terminals. 12 volts?? No, then charge the battery and re-test. 12 volts? No=junk the battery and get a new one.
If you get 12 volts at the battery terminals then leave the + lead on the + battery terminal and move the - (neg) lead to the engine block - find a good clean metal surface on the engine and see if there is a 12 volt reading. No=bad ground cable from battery to the engine.
If yes then put the - lead back on the battery and move the + lead down to the next available measurement point, normally the fat lug on the starter motor solenoid. 12 volts?? No=bad battery cable or terminal.
If yes, then move the + lead to the BAT terminal on the alternator. 12 volts? No=burned out fusible link or broken wire .
Yes then move the + lead to the + terminal of the main fuse block in the car. 12 volts?? No=burned fusible or broken wire going to the fuse block.
The basic idea here is to start at the source of energy, the battery, and then move further and further away from the battery (assuming it is good) until you no longer get a 12 volt reading. Then look for burned wires, burned out fusible links and broken connectors. It's not rocket science but it does require an orderly process to isolate the problem.